The Canadian Canoe Museum
A museum like no other, perhaps the best of its kind in the world.
The day started early. Not wanting to oversleep, I was up in time to watch the sunrise.
The main purpose of my day was a heart test at Kawartha Cardiology in Peterborough at 6:45 AM. No eating or caffeine from any source for 24 hours prior. That meant no morning coffee and a roughly one hour drive on an empty stomach. No matter. I was happy to have them look at me as so far, things have gone well in my battle against a high blood pressure diagnosis some 18 months ago when I returned to the health care system after a lengthy absence.
But the multi-part radiology exam I was scheduled for would consume a good part of the day and see me kicking stones for hours between test components. I had no idea how I was going to fill my time. I had no plans, other than to not be late for the exam. The radioactive dye they inject for the test doesn’t grow on trees and I was determined to follow their instructions to the letter so as not to waste the precious resource I had been given. Once again, my gratitude for the Canadian Health Care system. Far from perfect, but essential for so many things. Today woud be another example.
So, I made it on time no problem, and the test went quickly and without incident. I was happy with my treadmill performance and my recovery time. It was all over quicker than expected and now I was set free, a needle still hooked up to my hand for later in the day, but otherwise unencumbered.
I was encouraged to grab some breakfast which I did, and then headed out towards the east end of the city towards Little Lake in search of something to occupy my time. I rarely find myself in Peterborough without a full to-do list to do so this free time was a novelty, and I took it as a blessing. I located a parking area (no charge) on the north-east edge of the lake and found my way down to the water’s edge. The day was bright and sunny with no sign of the oppressive humidity of the previous week.
I followed along the shore with camera in hand. At least I had the foresight to grab my camera and a couple of lenses to occupy my time. I even packed a spare battery just in case. A paved trail seemed to follow along the shoreline there, so I joined the progression of walkers already in progress. I had at least three hours to put in, so I simply followed my nose and let the path lead me where it might.
Soon I came to Lock 20 of the Trent-Severn Waterway, known as Ashburnham. The lock station is described as “a quiet stop within the city limits.” A good place from which to see the Wednesday and Saturday night fireworks, they say on their website. Well, I’m a little early for that, but I walked up to the lock gates to see what I could see.
The water in the lock was calm but sloshed gently in the morning breeze. Standing atop the lock gates I took a photo of the water below. The surrounding park is dominated by gentle rolling slopes and close cut grass, interspersed with large willow trees as reflected in my image. The shoreline of Little Lake has been allowed to naturalize in places but access to the water remains at various points along the trail which, as I found out later, is be part of our Trans-Canada Trail system, which also also happens to pass near my home.
Crossing the gate with its yellow handrails, I carried on past a happy group of Canada Geese munching on the lawns. I was reminded that Canada Day weekend was fast approaching. July 1st; our nation’s birthday, but far from the beginning of our nation. How could something that was so simple in my youth have become so complicated?
The Canadian Canoe Museum
Less than a minute later, I found myself standing next to a building (The Canoe House) sporting the new Canadian Canoe Museum logo. My approach along the water was perhaps a little unusual, but not an insignificant way to arrive at the site, as the main reason the museum has been relocated here after 27 years, is to be on the water. The canoe house sits between the main exhibition and collection hall and Little Lake where a series of floating docks has been set up to accommodate on-water and outdoor education programming.
To explain this remarkable sign, I am going to quote directly from the museum website. Note that several of the captions and quotes below come from that source. I encourage you to visit the site for more information and to plan your own visit to the museum and grounds.
“The Canadian Canoe Museum has been working closely with Michi Saagiig Nishnaabeg knowledge holders to translate the Museum’s name into Anishnaabemowin, the language of the territory, lands and waters on which the Museum is situated.”
In Anishnaabemowin, “Jiimaan Kinomaagewin” translates to
“Canoe Place of Learning for All.”
“The Canadian Canoe Museum’s logo pays tribute to the pictograph (mazinaawbikinigin) that inspired the Museum’s original logo, which is located on a rock face at Pictured Lake within the traditional territory of Fort William First Nations. When Kirk Wipper, founder of the collection, borrowed this iconic image from a book by anthropologist Selwyn Dewdney (whose birch bark canoe is in the Museum’s collection), he did so to signal the importance of the deep Indigenous roots of canoes and canoeing in Canada.”
A smaller, handwritten sign next to the building announced the day as National Canoe Day in Canada. I thought to myself, I guess I stumbled onto the right path, which led me to this remarkable place on what was turning out to be a remarkable day. It was as if water spirits were guiding my way.
The doors of the Exhibition Hall being opened for the day as I stepped through them. I knew the museum had been closed for some time and that the purpose was to relocate the collection to a new site, but I didn’t know where that was or when it might open. All my questions were about to be answered. I never made it to the old museum, so this would be a fresh experience for me.
And what a new home it is. Stepping inside, I found myself standing in a large lobby with a cafe to one side and a large front desk with museum staff busy signing people up for canoe activities which were scheduled to begin shortly. Holding back from this activity, I wandered about a little, marvelling at the canoes above my head, suspended at all angles, some overlapping each other. A hodgepodge of outstandingly beautiful forms, suspended in space.
After the canoe registrations quieted, I asked if the exhibition hall was open and was told it had just opened recently, and so I bought a ticket and proceeded up the first of two flights of stairs to the exhibition hall. An elevator is available for wheelchair access and anyone intimidated by the stairs. Everything here is wheelchair accessible, event the floating docks by the lake and the paths down to them. It’s all part of the museums inclusivity mandate.
From the first stair landing, two large windows reveal the scope of the climate controlled Collection Hall. This where the canoes not on display in the exhibition hall above the lobby are kept. In all, the entire collection houses over 600 canoes and is said to be the largest and most significant collection of its kind in the world.
Continuing up to the top of the second set of stairs, I reach the entrance to the main exhibition space. A corridor lies ahead of me heading directly to the centre of the exhibition entitled Headwaters, but even before I can walk down this hallway, I am distracted by an enormous canoe just to my left.
Like most of the displays, interpretive signage and large photographic backdrops tell the story and set the scene.
Turning around from this giant dugout, a case of miniature canoes immediately caught my attention. The hall is full of surprises like this. And for every piece I gave my full attention, I passed over several more. There was definitely more than I could look at or take in on my initial visit. But I had to keep in mind, I was due for part two of my medical exam around noon, and had to keep moving lest I be forced to leave without a full cursory glance of the collection. I already knew I would have to come back another day.
Perhaps this is good time to quote again from the website which talks with more authority than I have about the scope of the collection I am about to see.
“The Museum’s artifacts range from the great dugouts of the First Nations of the Pacific Northwest to the singular bark canoes of the Beothuk of Newfoundland; from the skin-on-frame kayaks of northern peoples from Baffin Island in the east to the Mackenzie River Delta in the northwest to the all-wood and canvas-covered craft manufactured by companies with names like Herald, Peterborough, Chestnut, Lakefield and Canadian. Over the years, paddled watercraft from as far away as Samoa and Kenya have helped the Museum expand its reach and scope to include international examples.”
Turning back to the main corridor, I continue on to the Headwaters exhibit where the exhibition experience is meant to begin. The sounds of paddles through water fills the space along with the murmur of voices, perhaps of the ancestors, the effect bringing a sense of calmness and tranquility. This place is good for the heart I think to myself. And good for the soul, says another voice inside me.
The Headwaters exhibit lies at the centre of 5 additional permanent exhibits including: All My Relations, Connected By Canoe, Living Traditions, Pushing the Limits snd Reflections. Each room is themed to tell the stories behind the featured vessels. Headwaters itself is a round room, dominated by a large map of Canada.
I found the map as fascinating as any part of the collection. I could not help but focus in on my neck of the woods, the Great Lakes St. Lawrence lowlands where I have lived all my life. Born in Montreal, then moved to Toronto for ten years before heading to Trent Hills, in eastern Northumberland County.
Looking at the map devoid of political boundaries brought to mind this song of love.
I had a dream that I stole the maps
I erased all the borders, and that was that
- click click by danny michael
There are of course too many wonderful things in the collection to do justice to it in this short photo essay, but here are a few things that caught my eye.
Ultimately, the museum is about connecting people. From young to old, there is much to enjoy at the facility. And for those adventurous enough, a large birch bark canoe is at hand to give you an authentic canoe experience.
For myself however, it was time to leave. Time for the second half of my appointment. What an enjoyable way to fill a few hours in the pavilion like no other on the shores of Little Lake in Peterborough, Ontario.
I’ll leave you with the Franco Ontario band Cano (Coopérative des artistes du Nouvel-Ontario) who briefly brought French and English together in the seventies in a way that few other bands have been able to. Perhaps it is the canoe itself that draws us together. After all, we are all in the same boat.
Happy Canada Day, John! 🇨🇦. I met up with a friend of mine the other day and he was telling me about how he’d recently visited this museum. When he first arrived he wasn’t sure what to expect but he said it was one of the best museums he’s ever been to. After hearing what he said and after reading your post and looking at your wonderful photos, it certainly does look like it would be worth a day trip from Toronto. Thanks for writing about this.